Essaraya (6 Rue Ben Mahmoud, Boulevard Bab Menara, Tunis) — t is not easy to find this restaurant, a sumptuous restored palace hidden in the Medina’s labyrinth of souks. So it is opportune to come across a man clad in traditional attire and bearing a lantern waiting to guide clients to the restaurant’s entrance that opens into an enchanting fairytale décor. Essaraya is where dignitaries of old used to be closely waited on and today the waiting staff follows in the footsteps of their forefathers never missing a detail as they serve guests in the various dining areas that range from open rooms to private alcoves. The menu covers the classics, including marka h’loua – sweet and sour lamb gently cooked with prunes, chestnuts, raisins and almonds – or kabkabou, a tasty fish stew. An interesting selection of desserts should not be missed before being guided back to present day Tunis.